Wari Beer
Production as Practice at the Cerro Baúl Brewery
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1558/aff.21236Keywords:
craft production, alcohol, practice, chicha, ethnographic analogy, experimental archaeologyAbstract
Between 600 and 1000 AD, the Wari state expanded across the Andes. Wari beer was one of the quintessential ways in which Wari identity was promoted in provincial centers hundreds of kilometers from the Ayacucho heartland. Based on excavations at the far southern provincial Wari brewery at Cerro Baúl, we take a production sequence approach to beer preparation, to evaluate the nature of Wari brewing as state practice. We investigate each step of the brewing process, from ceramic container manufacture through plant processing, mashing, and fermentation, in different spatial venues used at Cerro Baúl in the production of Wari chicha de jora y molle. This method provides us with insights into the practice of Wari state brewing and into the corollary activities being undertaken in the same spaces. In so doing, we establish the nature of craft production of beer-making in Wari state contexts, and how it is differentiated from contemporary and later household contexts of beer production in the region.
References
Arnold, Bettina. 1999. “Alcohol and the Legitimation of Power in Celtic Europe.” Cambridge Archaeological Journal 9(1):71–93. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0959774300015213
Betanzos Juan de. 1996 [1567]. Narrative of the Incas. Edited and translated by Roland Hamilton and Dana Buchanan. Austin: University of Texas Press.
Biwer, Matthew E., Patricia Chirinos Ogata, Donna J. Nash, and Patrick Ryan Williams. 2019. “Comida y Contacto Cultural: Resultados Preliminares del Proyecto de Investigación Paleobotánica Wari en Moquegua.” In Actas deI IV Congreso Nacional de Arqueología Volumen II, 77–88. Lima: Ministry of Culture of Peru.
Bolin, Inge. 1998. Rituals of Respect: The Secret of Survival in the High Peruvian Andes. Austin: University of Austin Press.
Bray, Tamara. 2003. “The Commensal Politics of Early States and Empires.” In The Archaeology and Politics of Food and Feasting in Early States and Empires, edited by Tamara Bray, 1–16. New York: Kluwer Academic Publishers.
Cieza de León, Pedro. 1959 [1553]. The Incas of Pedro de Cieza de León. Edited by Victor W. Von Hagen. Translated by Harriet de Onis. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press.
Cobo, Father Bernabe. 1990 [1653]. Inca Religion and Customs. Edited and translated by Roland Hamilton. Austin: University of Texas Press.
Cutler, Hugh C. and Cardenas, Martin. 1947. “Chicha, a Native South American Beer.” Botanical Museum Leaflets, Harvard University 13(3):33–60. https://doi.org/10.5962/p.295173
Deglin, Louise, Donna Nash, and Patrick R. Williams. 2022. “Wari Imperial Motives: the Variety of Decorated Ceramics at Cerro Baúl.” Ñawpa Pacha 43(1):1–26. https://doi.org/10.1080/00776297.2022.2068227
de la Vega, el Inca Garcilaso. 1966 [1609]. Royal Commentaries of the Incas and General History of Peru, Parts 1 and 2. Translated by H. V. Livermore. Austin: University of Texas Press.
Dietler, Michael. 2020. “Alcohol as Embodied Material Culture.” In Alcohol and Humans: A Long and Social Affair, edited by K. Hockings and R. Dunbar, 115–129. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Dietler, Michael and Ingrid Herbich. 2001. “Feasts and Labor Mobilization: Dissecting a Fundamental Economic Practice.” In Feasts: Archaeological and Ethnographic Perspectives on Food, Politics and Power, edited by Michael Dietler and Brian Hayden, 23–64. Washington, D. C.: Smithsonian Institution Press.
Dolan, Barbara. 1985. “Environment and Agrarian Economy: The Land and its Potential in an Andean Community.” PhD Dissertation, University of Oregon.
Feldman, Robert. 1998. “La Ciudadela Wari de Cerro Baúl en Moquegua.” In Moquegua: Los Primeros Doce Mil Años, edited by Karen Wise, 59–65. Moquegua: Museo Contisuyo.
Glowacki, Mary. 2005. “Pottery from Pikillacta.” In Pikillacta, edited by G. F. McEwan, 101–114. Iowa City: University of Iowa Press.
Gobierno Regional de Ayacucho. 2010. Plan de Manejo del Complejo Arqueológico Wari, Ayacucho. San Isidro: Plan Copesco Nacional.
Goldstein, David J. and Robin C. Coleman. 2004. “Schinus Molle L. (Anacardiaceae) Chicha Production in the Central Andes.” Economic Botany 58:523–529. https://doi.org/10.1663/0013-0001(2004)058[0523:SMLACP]2.0.CO;2
Goldstein, David J., Robin C. Coleman, and Patrick R. Williams. 2008. “You Are What You Drink: Reconstructing Middle Horizon (500–1000 C.E.) Social Dynamics through Paleoethnobotanical Interpretations of Fermented Beverage Production and Consumption at Cerro Baúl, Moquegua, Perú.” In Drink, Power, and Society in the Andes, edited by J. Jennings and B. Bowers, 133–166. Gainesville: University of Florida Press.
Gumerman IV, George. 2010. “Big Hearths and Big Pots: Moche Feasting on the North Coast of Peru.” In Inside Ancient Kitchens: New Directions in the Study of Daily Meals and Feasts, edited by Elizabeth A. Klarich, 111–132. Boulder: University Press of Colorado.
Hayashida, Frances M. 2008. “Ancient Beer and Modern Brewers: Ethnoarchaeological Observations of Chicha Production in Two Regions of the North Coast of Peru.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 27(2):161–174. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2008.03.003
Hyslop, John. 1993. “Factors Influencing the Transmission and Distribution of Inka Cultural Materials throughout Tawantinsuyu.” In Latin American Horizons, edited by Don Stephen Rice, 337–356. Washington, D. C.: Trustees for Harvard University.
Isbell, William. 2007. “A Community of Potters, or Multicrafting Wives of Polygynous Lords?” In Craft Production in Complex Societies, edited by Izumi Shimada, 68–96. Salt Lake City: University of Utah Press.
Janusek, John. 2004. Identity and Power in the Ancient Andes. New York: Routledge.
Jennings, Justin, Kathleen Antrobus, Sam Atencio, Erin Glavich, Rebecca Johnson, German Loffler, and Christine Luu. 2005. “Drinking Beer in a Blissful Mood: Alcohol Production, Operational Chains, and Feasting in the Ancient World.” Current Anthropology 46(2):275–303. https://doi.org/10.1086/427119
Joffe, Alexander H. 1998. “Alcohol and Social Complexity in Ancient Western Asia.” Current Anthropology 39(3):297-322. https://doi.org/10.1086/204736
Knobloch, Patricia. 2000. “Wari Ritual Power at Conchopata: An Interpretation of Anadananthera colubrina Iconography.” Latin American Antiquity 11(4):387–402. https://doi.org/10.2307/972003
Londoño, Ana C., Patrick R. Williams, and Megan L. Hart. 2017. “A Change in Landscape: Lessons Learned from Abandonment of Ancient Wari Agricultural Terraces in Southern Peru.” Journal of Environmental Management 202(3):532–542. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvman.2017.01.012
Meyerson, Julia. 1990. Tambo: Life in an Andean Village. Austin: University of Texas Press.
Mohr Chavez, Karen L. 1984. “Traditional Pottery of Raqch’i, Cuzco, Peru: A Preliminary Study of its Production, Distribution, and Consumption.” Ñawpa Pacha 22(1):161–210. https://doi.org/10.1179/naw.1984.22-23.1.005
Moore, Jerry D. 1989. “Pre-Hispanic Beer in Coastal Peru: Technology and Social Context of Prehistoric Production.” American Anthropologist 91(3):682–695. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.1989.91.3.02a00090
Morris, Craig. 1979. “Maize Beer in the Economics, Politics and Religion of the Inca Empire.” In Fermented Food Beverages in Nutrition, edited by Clifford F. Gastineau, William J. Darby, and Thomas B. Turner, 21–35. New York: Academic Press.
Morris, Craig and Donald E. Thompson. 1985. Huanuco Pampa: An Inca City and Its Hinterland. London: Thames and Hudson.
Moseley, Michael E., Donna J. Nash, Patrick R. Williams, Susan deFrance, Ana Miranda, and Mario Ruales. 2005. “Burning Down the Brewery: Establishing and Evacuating an Ancient Imperial Colony at Cerro Baúl, Peru.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 102(48):17264–271. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.0508673102
Nash, Donna J. 2009. “Household Archaeology in the Andes.” Journal of Archaeological Research 17(3):205–261. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10814-009-9029-7
———. 2010. “Fine Dining and Fabulous Atmosphere: Feasting Facilities and Political Interaction in the Wari Realm.” In Inside Ancient Kitchens: New Directions in the Study of Daily Meals and Feasts, edited by Elizabeth A. Klarich, 83–109. Boulder: University Press of Colorado.
———. 2012. “The Art of Feasting: Building an Empire with Food and Drink.” In Wari: Lords of the Ancient Andes, edited by S. Bergh, 82–102. New York: Thames and Hudson.
———. 2018. “Art and Elite Political Machinations in the Middle Horizon Andes.” In Images in Action: The Southern Andean Iconographic Series, edited by W. Isbell, M. Uribe, A. Tiballi, and E. Zegarr, 481–499. Los Angeles: Cotsen Institute of Archaeology Press.
Nash, Donna J. and Patrick R. Williams. 2009. “Wari Provincial Organization: The Southern Periphery.” In The Foundations of Andean Civilization: Works in Honor of Michael Moseley, edited by Joyce Marcus and Patrick Ryan Williams, 255–279. Los Angeles: Cotsen Institute of Archaeology Press.
Nicholson, G. Edward. 1960. “Maize Types and Chicha Manufacture in Peru.” Economic Botany 14(4):290–299. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02908039
Owen, Bruce, and Paul Goldstein. 2001. “Tiwanaku en Moquegua: Interacciones Regionales y Colapso.” Boletín de Arqueología PUCP 5:139–168. https://doi.org/10.18800/boletindearqueologiapucp.200101.007
Sayre, Matthew, David Goldstein, William Whitehead, and Patrick R. Williams. 2012. “A Marked Preference: Chicha de Molle and Wari State Consumption Practices.” Ñawpa Pacha 32(2):231–258. https://doi.org/10.1179/naw.2012.32.2.231
Schreiber, Katharina. 1987. “Conquest and Consolidation: A Comparison of Wari and Inka Occupations of a Highland Peruvian Valley.” American Antiquity 52(2):266–284. https://doi.org/10.2307/281780
———. 1992. Wari Imperialism in Middle Horizon Peru. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.
———. 2001. “The Wari Empire of Middle Horizon Peru: The Epistemological Challenge of Documenting an Empire Without Documentary Evidence.” In Empires, edited by S. Alcock, T. D’Altroy, K. Morrison, and C. Sinopoli, 70–92. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Stanish, Charles. 2003. Ancient Titicaca: The Evolution of Complex Society in Southern Peru and Northern Bolivia. Los Angeles: University of California Press.
Valdez, Lidio M. 2006. “Maize Beer Production in Middle Horizon Peru.” Journal of Anthropological Research 62(1):53–80. https://doi.org/10.3998/jar.0521004.0062.103
Valdez, Lidio M., Katerina J. Bettcher, and Jovelyn Valdez. 2010. “Production of Maize Beer at a Wari Site in the Ayacucho Valley, Peru.” Arqueología Iberoamericana 5:23–35.
Williams, Patrick R. 2001. “Cerro Baúl: A Wari Center on the Tiwanaku Frontier.” Latin American Antiquity 12(1):67–83. https://doi.org/10.2307/971758
———. 2004. “Agricultural Innovation, Intensification, and Sociopolitical Development: The Case of Highland Irrigation Agriculture on the Pacific Andean Watersheds.” In Agricultural Strategies, edited by J. Marcus and C. Stanish, 309–333. Los Angeles: Cotsen Institute of Archaeology.
———. 2009. “Wari and Tiwanaku Borderlands.” In Tiwanaku: Papers from the 2005 Mayer Center Symposium, edited by M. Young-Sanchez, 211–224. Denver: Denver Art Museum.
———. 2020. Cambio Climático en los Antiguos Andes. Moquegua: Universidad Nacional de Moquegua.
Williams, Patrick R. and Donna J. Nash. 2016. “Religious Ritual and Wari State Expansion.” In Ritual and Archaic States, edited by Joanne M. A. Murphy, 131–156. Gainesville: University Press of Florida.
———. 2021. “Consuming Kero: Molle Beer and Wari Social Identity in Andean Peru.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 63:101327. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2021.101327
Williams, Patrick R., Donna J. Nash, Josh Henkin, and Ruth Ann Armitage. 2019. “Archaeometric Approaches to Defining Sustainable Governance: Wari Brewing Traditions and the Building of Political Relationships in Ancient Peru.” Sustainability 11(8):2333. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11082333
Williams, Patrick R., Donna J. Nash, Michael E. Moseley, Susan deFrance, Mario Ruales, Ana Miranda, and David J. Goldstein. 2008. “Encuentros en el Reino Wari.” Boletin de Arqueologia PUCP 9:207–232.