Pouring the Past
Questions of Authenticity in Ancient Beer Recreations
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1558/aff.21904Keywords:
authenticity, ancient beer, beer recreation, brewing, archaeology of alcohol, experimental archaeologyAbstract
One of the first questions asked of ancient ale recreations is whether or not the beer is ‘authentic’. In the subtext of this question is an unwavering belief that a single, original form actually existed and is attainable in a modern ale inspired by millennia-old archaeological traces. This desire for an idealized authenticity comes even before curiosity about how the beverage tastes, which begs the question: what is actually being consumed? The ‘authentic’ circumstances of ancient beer brewing differ with each archaeological investigation. Many of the earliest brews would require some form of hygienically questionable open boils in large ceramic vessels in order to be recreated, and were designed to be drunk through straws made of… straw. Under this burden of proof, an ancient-inspired ale would only be deemed genuine if not viable in a craft beer market. Yet this consumer desire for an authentic experience or product has been groomed for decades through tourism. Consumers believe that the authentic exists, is packageable, and can be purchased. Today, the question of authenticity is compounded with the serious issues of cultural appropriation, decolonizing tourism, and global, migratory work forces. All of this leads to the very real need for an exploration of authenticity in experimental and sensory archaeology. Towards that goal, we discuss authenticity and its implications for ancient beer recreations, its implications for experimental archaeology, and how to best unpack this topic for the broader audiences for whom these recreations are made.
References
Aaron, Paul and David Musto. 1981. “Temperance and Prohibition in America: A Historical Overview.” In Alcohol and Public Policy: Beyond the Shadow of Prohibition, edited by Mark H. Moore and Dean R. Gerstein, 127–181. Washington D. C.: National Research Council and Committee on Substance Abuse.
Al-Badri, Dominic. 2006. “Kirin Plaza Osaka Applies Brains to Beer.” Japan Inc. http://www.japaninc.com/article.php?articleID=1241. Accessed 1 January, 2020.
Anchor Brewing. 2016. “Sumerian Beer Project: Blogpost.” https://www.anchorbrewing.com/blog/sumerian-beer-project/. Accessed 17 Marsh, 2021.
Arthur, John W. 2003. “Brewing Beer: Status, Wealth and Ceramic Use Alteration Among the Gamo of Southwestern Ethiopia.” World Archaeology 34(3):516–528. https://doi.org/10.1080/0043824021000026486
Arthur, John W. 2014. “Beer Through the Ages: The Role of Beer in Shaping our Past and Current Worlds.” Anthropology Now 6(2):1–11. https://doi.org/10.1080/19492901.2014.11728428
Arthur, John W. 2021. “Beer, Ritual, and Identity: Ethnoarchaeological and Archaeological Study in Konso, Southern Ethiopia.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 64:1–10. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2021.101350
Beer, Sean. 2008 “Authenticity and Food Experience: Commercial and Academic Perspectives.” Journal of Foodservice 19(3):153–163. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1745-4506.2008.00096.x
Belhassen, Yaniv and Kellee Caton. 2006. “Authenticity Matters.” Annals of Tourism Research 33(3): 853–856. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.annals.2006.03.009
Berhanu, A. 2014. “Microbial Profile of Tella and the Role of Gesho (Rhamnus prinoides) as Bittering and Antimicrobial Agent in Traditional Tella (Beer) Production.” International Food Research Journal 21(1):357–365.
Bott, Michael and Rupert Soskin. 2019. “With Merryn and Graham Dinely.” Beer in the Neolithic. https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/podcast-22-beer-in-the-neolithic-merryn-graham-dineley/id1368451254?i=1000461156147. Accessed 1 January, 2020.
Braidwood, Robert J., Jonathan D. Sauer, Hans Helbaek, Paul C. Mangelsdorf, Hugh C. Cutler, Carleton S. Coon, Ralph Linton, Julian Steward, and A. Leo Oppenheim. 1953. “Symposium: Did Man Once Live by Beer Alone?” American Anthropologist 55(4):515–526. https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.1953.55.4.02a00050
Brumfiel, Elizabeth. 1991. “Weaving and Cooking: Women’s Production in Aztec Mexico.” In Engendering Archaeology: Women and Prehistory, edited by Margaret Conkey and Joan M. Gero, 224–251. London: Blackwell.
Burns, Ken. 2011. Prohibition. Directed by Ken Burns. Produced by Sarah Botstein, Lynn Novick, and Ken Burns. Walpole: Florentine Films.
Cai, Wenjie, Maria Gebbels, and Wan Hafiz Wan-Zainal-Shukri. 2021. “Performing authenticity: Independent Chinese Travellers’ Tourism Dining Experiences in Europe.” Tourism Management 86:104339. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2021.104339
Clarkson, Chris and Ceri Shipton. 2015. “Teaching Ancient Technology using ‘Hands-On’ Learning and Experimental Archaeology.” Ethnoarchaeology 7(2):157–172. https://doi.org/10.1179/1944289015Z.00000000032
Crewe, Lindy and Ian Hill. 2012. “Finding Beer in the Archaeological Record: A Case Study from Kissonerga-Skalia on Bronze Age Cyprus.” Levant 44(2):205–237. https://doi.org/10.1179/0075891412Z.0000000009
Damerow, Peter. 2012. “Sumerian Beer: The Origins of Brewing Technology in Ancient Mesopotamia.” Cuneiform Digital Library Journal 2(1):1–20.
DeSalle, Rob and Ian Tattersall. 2019. A Natural History of Beer. London: Yale University Press.
Dietler, Michael. 1990. “Driven by Drink: The Role of Drinking in the Political Economy and the Case of Early Iron Age France.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 9(4):352–406. https://doi.org/10.1016/0278-4165(90)90011-2
Dietler, Michael. 2001. “Theorizing the Feast: Rituals of Consumption, Commensal Politics, and Power in African Contexts.” In Feasts: Archaeological and Ethnographic Perspectives on Food, Politics, and Power, edited by Michael Dietler and Brian Hayden, 65–114. Washington, D. C.: Smithsonian Press.
Dietler, Michael. 2006. “Alcohol: Anthropological/Archaeological Perspectives.” Annual Review of Anthropology 35:229–249. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev.anthro.35.081705.123120
Dietler, Michael. 2020. “Alcohol as Embodied Material Culture.” In Alcohol and Humans, edited by Kimberley Hockings and Robin Dunbar, 115–129. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Dietrich, Laura, Eva Götting-Martin, Jasmine Hertzog, Philippe Schmitt-Kopplin, Patrick E. McGovern, Gretchen R. Hall, and W. Christian Petersen. 2020. “Investigating the Function of Pre-Pottery Neolithic Stone Troughs from Göbekli Tepe: An Integrated Approach.” Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports 34:1–20. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2020.102618
Dietrich, Oliver, Manfred Heun, Jens Notroff, Klaus Schmidt, and Martin Zarnkow. 2012. “The Role of Cult and Feasting in the Emergence of Neolithic Communities: New Evidence from Göbekli Tepe, South-Eastern Turkey.” Antiquity 86(333):674–695. http://doi.org/10.1017/S0003598X00047840
Dresel, Michael, Christian Vogt, Andreas Dunkel, and Thomas Hofmann. 2016. “The Bitter Chemodiversity of Hops (Humulus lupulus L.).” Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 64(41):7789–799. https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.6b03933
Dunn, Robert R., Katherine R. Amato, Elizabeth A. Archie, Mimi Arandjelovic, Alyssa N. Crittenden, and Lauren M. Nichols. 2020. “The Internal, External and Extended Microbiomes of Hominins.” Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution 8(25):1–12. https://doi.org/10.3389/fevo.2020.00025
Ellis, Ashleigh, Eerang Park, Sangkyun Kim, and Ian Yeoman. 2018. “What is Food Tourism?” Tourism Management 68:250–263. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2018.03.025
Gaytán, Marie Sarita. 2014. “Drinking Difference: Race, Consumption, and Alcohol Prohibition in Mexico and the United States.” Ethnicities 14(3):436–457. https://doi.org/10.1177/1468796813484442
Goldstein, David J., Robin C. Coleman Goldstein, and Patrick R. Williams. 2008. “You Are What You Drink: A Sociocultural Reconstruction of Pre-Hispanic Fermented Beverage Use at Cerro Baul, Moquegua, Peru.” In Drink, Power and Society in the Andes, edited by Justin Jennings and Brenda J. Bowser, 133–166. Gainesville: University Press of Florida.
Goodman-Elgar, Melissa. 2008. “Places to Partake: Chicha in the Andean Landscape.” In Drink, Power and Society in the Andes, edited by Justin Jennings and Brenda J. Bowser, 75–106. Gainesville: University Press of Florida.
Hayashida, Frances M. 2008. “Ancient Beer and Modern Brewers: Ethnoarchaeological Observations of Chicha production in Two Regions of the North Coast of Peru.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 27:161–174. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2008.03.003
Hall, Timothy M. 2005. “Pivo at the Heart of Europe: Beer-Drinking and Czech Identities.” In Drinking Cultures: Alcohol and Identity, edited by T. M. Wilson, 65–86. New York: Berg.
Handler, Richard. 1986. “Authenticity.” Anthropology Today 2(1):2–4. https://doi.org/10.2307/3032899
Handler, Richard. 2003. “Cultural property and culture theory.” Journal of Social Archaeology 3(3):353–365. https://doi.org/10.1177/14696053030033004
Hansen, Christian Stevns, Louise Holmsgaard Faerch, and Peter Lommer Kristensen. 2010. “Testing the Validity of the Danish Urban Myth that Alcohol can be Absorbed through Feet: Open Labelled Self Experimental Study.” British Medical Journal 341(7786):1286–287. https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.c6812
Heisse, Andreas G., Marian B. Azorín, Ferran Antolín, Lucy Kubiak-Martens, Elena Marinova, Elke K. Arendt, Costas G. Billiaderis, Hermann Kretschmer, Athina Lazaridou, Hans-Peter Stika, et al. 2020. “Mashes to Mashes, Crust to Crust: Presenting a Novel Microstructural Marker for Malting in the Archaeological Record.” PLoS ONE 15(5):1–40. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0231696
Hendy, Jessica, Matthäus Rest, Mark Aldenderfer, and Christina Warinner. 2021. “Cultures of Fermentation: Living with Microbes.” Current Anthropology 62(24):S198–S206. https://doi.org/10.1086/715476
Hjalager, Anne-Mette and Greg Richards. 2002. Tourism and Gastronomy. London: Routledge.
Homan, Michael M. 2004. “Beer and its Drinkers: An Ancient Near Eastern Love Story.” Near Eastern Archaeology 67(2):84–95. https://doi.org/10.2307/4132364
Hopwood, Marie. 2022. “The Movement of Women, Beer and Feast Foods in Establishing the Inka Empire.” Dublin Gastronomy Symposium. https://arrow.tudublin.ie/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1282&context=dgs. Accessed 1 January, 2020.
Hornsey, Ian Spencer. 2003. A History of Beer and Brewing: Vol. 34. Cambridge: Royal Society of Chemistry.
Jennings, Justin, Kathleen L. Antrobus, Sam J. Atencio, Erin Glavich, Rebecca Johnson, German Loffler, and Christine Luu. 2005. “‘Drinking Beer in a Blissful Mood’: Alcohol Production, Operational Chains, and Feasting in the Ancient World.” Current Anthropology 46(2):275–303. https://doi.org/10.1086/427119
Joffe, Alexander. 1998. “Alcohol and Social Complexity in Ancient Western Asia.” Current Anthropology 39(3):297–322. https://doi.org/10.1086/204736
Joffe, Alexander. 2022. “Hello I Must Be Going: The ANE Today Editor Says Goodbye.” Ancient Near East Today. https://www.asor.org/anetoday/2022/12/anetoday-editor-goodbye. Accessed February 25, 2023.
Katz, Solomon H. and Mary M. Voigt. 1986. “Bread and Beer: The Early Use of Cereals in the Human Diet.” Expedition 28(2):23–34.
Katz, Solomon H., Fritz Maytag, and Miguel Civil. 1991. “Brewing an Ancient Beer.” Archaeology 44(4):24–33.
Kim, Sangkyun, Eerang Park, and Min Xu. 2020. “Beyond the Authentic Taste: The Tourist Experience at a Food Museum Restaurant.” Tourism Management Perspectives 36:1–9. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tmp.2020.100749
Koontz, Amanda and Nathaniel G. Chapman. 2019. “About Us: Authenticating Identity Claims in the Craft Beer Industry.” Journal of Popular Culture 52(2):351–372. https://doi.org/10.1111/jpcu.12787
Kyodo. 2002. “Kirin to Replicate Ancient Egyptian Brew.” The Japan Times. https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2002/02/21/national/kirin-to-replicate-ancient-egyptian-brew/. Accessed 17 March, 2021.
Le, Truc H., Charles Arcodia, Margarida Abreu Novais, and Anna Kralj. 2019. “What we Know and Do Not Know About Authenticity in Dining Experiences: A Systematic Literature Review.” Tourism Management 74:258–275. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tourman.2019.02.012
Livens, Stephen. 2016. “Beer: Fermentation.” In Encyclopedia of Food and Health, edited by Benjamin Caballero, Paul M. Finglas, and Fidel Toldrá, 339–344. Cambridge: Academic Press.
Malone, Patrick. 2000. “Experimental Industrial Archeology: Imitation in Pursuit of Authenticity.” The Journal of the Society for Industrial Archeology 26(1):85–94.
Mangelsdorf, Rob. 2017. “Beerstory 101: St. Hildegard of Bingen.” The Growler. https://bc.thegrowler.ca/features/beerstory-101-st-hildegard-of-bingen/. Accessed 20 December, 2021.
Marks, Tasha, Susan Boyle, and Michaela Charles. 2018. “How to Make 5,000 Year Old Beer.” Pleasant Vices, British Museum. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izpoexYN1-8. Accessed October 12, 2020.
McGovern, Patrick E. 2017. Ancient Brews: Rediscovered and Re-created. New York: WW Norton.
McGovern, Patrick E. 2000. “The Funerary Banquet of “King Midas”.” Expedition 42(1):21–29.
McGovern, Patrick E., Anne P. Underhill, Hui Fang, Fengshi Luan, Gretchen R. Hall, Haiguang Yu, Chen-Shan Wang, Fengshu Cai, Zhijun Zhao, and Gary M. Feinman. 2005. “Chemical Identification and Cultural Implications of a Mixed Fermented Beverage from Late Prehistoric China.” Asian Perspectives 44(2):249–275. https://doi.org/10.1353/asi.2005.0026
McGovern, Patrick E., Gretchen R. Hall, and Armen Mirzoian. 2013. “A Biomolecular Archaeological Approach to ‘Nordic grog’.” Danish Journal of Archaeology 2(2):112–131. https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2013.867101
Mullins, Paul R. 2011. “The Archaeology of Consumption.” Annual Review of Anthropology 40:113–144. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-anthro-081309-145746
Namdar, Dvory, Ronny Neumann, Yuval Goren, and Steve Weiner. 2009. “The Contents of Unusual Cone-Shaped Vessels (Cornets) from the Chalcolithic of the Southern Levant.” Journal of Archaeological Science 36(3):629–636. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2008.10.004
National Geographic. 2020. “Raise a Glass! It’s the 100th Anniversary of Prohibition.” https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/history-magazine/article/anniversary-of-prohibition-in-america. Accessed 1 June, 2023.
Paulette, Tate. 2020. “Brewing Mesopotamian Beer Brings a Sip of Vibrant Ancient Drinking Culture Back to Life.” The Conversation. https://theworld.org/stories/2020-09-09/brewing-mesopotamian-beer-brings-sip-vibrant-ancient-drinking-culture-back-life. Accessed October 12, 2020.
Paulette, Tate. 2021. “Inebriation and the Early State: Beer and the Politics of Affect in Mesopotamia.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 63:1–19. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2021.101330
Paulette, Tate and Michael Fisher. 2017. “Potent Potables of the Past: Beer and Brewing in Mesopotamia.” Ancient Near East Today 5(4). https://www.asor.org/anetoday/2017/04/brewing-mesopotamia
Patania, Ilaria and Yitzchak Jaffe. 2018. “Eating Archaeology: Experimenting with Food in Public Outreach.” Public Archaeology 17(1):1–14. https://doi.org/10.1080/14655187.2018.1510361
Perry, Dominic. n. d. “Interview: Alcohol and Economics with Prof. Leslie Warden.” Egyptian History Podcast. https://www.egyptianhistorypodcast.com/interview-alcohol-and-economics/. Accessed September 1, 2021.
Perruchini, Elsa, Claudia Glatz, Mette Marie Hald, Jesse Casana, and Jamie L. Toney. 2018. “Revealing Invisible Brews: A New Approach to the Chemical Identification of Ancient Beer.” Journal of Archaeological Science 100:176–190. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2018.05.010
Peterson, Richard A. 2005. “In Search of Authenticity.” Journal of Management Studies 42(5):1083–1098. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-6486.2005.00533.x
Pires, Eduardo and Tomáš Brányik. 2015. Biochemistry of Beer Fermentation. New York: Springer International.
Samuel, Delwen. 1996a. “Archaeology of Ancient Egyptian Beer.” Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists 54(1):3–12. https://doi.org/10.1094/ASBCJ-54-0003
Samuel, Delwen. 1996b. “Investigation of Ancient Egyptian Baking and Brewing Methods by Correlative Microscopy.” Science 273(5274):488–490. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.273.5274.488
Schwartz, George. 2013. “A Pint of the Past: Assessing Authenticity in Modern Versions of Ancient and Historic Ales.” Brewery History 154:17–30.
Spinnakers Brew Pub. 2013. “Reviving the Craft.” https://www.spinnakers.com/reviving-the-craft/. Accessed December 1, 2020.
Statistics Canada. 2019. “Canadian Alcohol and Drugs Survey: Public Use Microdata File.” https://doi.org/10.25318/13250005-eng. Accessed September 1, 2020.
Stewart, Graham G. 2016. “Saccharomyces Species in the Production of Beer” Beverages 2(34):1–18. https://doi.org/10.3390/beverages2040034
Stub, Sarah Toth. 2020. “Ancient Beer Is Craft’s New Frontier.” Sapiens. https://www.sapiens.org/archaeology/ancient-beer/. Accessed 17 March, 2021.
Tongeren, F. van. 2011. “Standards and International Trade Integration: A Historical Review of the German ‘Reinheitsgebot’.” In The Economics of Beer, edited by Johan F. M. Swinnen, 51–61. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Tringham, Ruth. 1991. “Households with Faces: The Challenge of Gender in Prehistoric Architectural Remains.” In Engendering Archaeology: Women and Prehistory, edited by Margaret Conkey and Joan M. Gero, 93–131. London: Blackwell.
Wang, Jiajing and Li Liu. 2022. “Introduction: Alcohol, Rituals, and Politics in the Ancient World.” Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 65: 1–8. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2022.101397
Jiajing Wang, Li Liu, Andreea Georgescu, Vivienne V. Le, Madeleine H. Ota, Silu Tang, and Mahpiya Vanderbilt. 2017. “Identifying Ancient Beer Brewing through Starch Analysis: A Methodology.” Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports 15:150–160 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jasrep.2017.07.016
Warden, Leslie Anne. 2013. Pottery and Economy in Old Kingdom Egypt. New York: Brill.
Wayessa, Bula Sirika, Diane Lyons, and Brian Kooyman. 2015. “Ethnoarchaeological Study of Brewing Technology in Wallaga Region of Western Oromia, Ethiopia.” Journal of African Archaeology 13(1):99–144. https://doi.org/10.3213/2191-5784-10268
Weiss, Allen S. 2011. “Authenticity.” Gastronomica 11(4):74–77. https://doi.org/10.1525/gfc.2012.11.4.74
Wilson, Thomas M. (ed.). 2005a. Drinking Cultures: Alcohol and Identity. New York: Berg.
Wilson, Thomas M. 2005b. “Drinking Cultures: Sites and Practices in the Production and Expression of Identity.” In Drinking Cultures: Alcohol and Identity, edited by Thomas M. Wilson, 1–24. New York: Berg.
von Rycken Wilson, E. 1921. “Post-Reformation Features of English Drinking.” American Catholic Quarterly 46:134–155.
Vencl, Slavomil. 1994. “The Archaeology of Thirst.” Journal of European Archaeology 2(2):299–326. https://doi.org/10.1179/096576694800719094