Arab Origins of Tavukgögsü and Blancmange

An Overlooked History

Authors

  • Utku Can Topçu Independent Scholar Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1558/ppc.27812

Keywords:

recipe lineage, blancmange, tavukgöğsü, Arab cuisine, cooking techniques, Kitab al-Tabikh, white foods, medieval europe

Abstract

The origins of the European blancmange and the Turkish tavukgögsü (chicken-breast (white) pudding) have been the subject of academic and culinary interest for many years. Usually, both have been traced back to Roman sources: John Ayto, author of The Diner’s Dictionary, repeats a claim that blancmange originates from De re coquinaria; while Tugrul Savkay, a Turkish gourmet and author of books about the history of Turkish cuisine, suggests the same is true of tavukgögsü. De re coquinaria, also known as Apicius, allegedly included a recipe that resembles both dishes; however, it failed to survive in modern copies of the book. This article argues that the antecedents of both blancmange and tavukgögsü are actually harisa recipes that are cooked in the Arab world to this day.

Author Biography

  • Utku Can Topçu, Independent Scholar

    Utku Can Topçu is a software engineer living in Amsterdam. Next to his day job, he spends most of his time in his kitchen: reading, researching and experimenting.

Published

2021-11-01

Issue

Section

Articles

How to Cite

Topçu, Utku Can. 2021. “Arab Origins of Tavukgögsü and Blancmange: An Overlooked History”. Petits Propos Culinaires, November, 45-56. https://doi.org/10.1558/ppc.27812.