M. G. Saphir, Jewish Cuisine's First Food Writer

Authors

  • András Koerner Independent Scholar Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1558/ppc.27747

Keywords:

Moritz Gottlieb Saphir, mid-19th century, austro-hungarian empire, Kochbuch fur Israeliten, jewish cuisine, food and religion, kosher, Ashkenazi, vernacular cookery, cultural assimilation, secularism, conversion, religious identity, journalism, feuilleton, cultural attrition, antisemitism, cookbook history, preparations & techniques

Abstract

This article looks at the evolution of Jewish food writing (as opposed to cookbook writing) by examining the work of  M G Saphir whose writings celebrate jewish food in Central and Eastern Europe from the mid-19th century on and explores the culture in which this arose. Saphir played a pioneering role with his earliest piece on Jewish cuisine, published in 1840, which is only a few sentences long, but nevertheless of great historical importance, since it represents the first press review of a Jewish cookbook.

Author Biography

  • András Koerner, Independent Scholar

    András Koerner was born in Budapest in 1940 and has been living in New York since 1968. He has published numerous books in English and Hungarian, mostly about the lifestyles and culinary culture of Hungarian Jews before World War II. His Jewish Cuisine in Hungary: A Cultural History (CEU Press/Corvina, 2019) won the National Jewish Book Award. PPC 123 featured a review of his latest book, Early Jewish Cookbooks. Essays on Hungarian Jewish Gastronomical History (CEU Press, 2022).

References

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Published

2022-12-01

Issue

Section

Articles

How to Cite

Koerner, András. 2022. “M. G. Saphir, Jewish Cuisine’s First Food Writer”. Petits Propos Culinaires, December, 40-68. https://doi.org/10.1558/ppc.27747.